Nemesis trollkirka

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Odins bue < Cmelák  |  Spurven > Kingfisher >>

(Nemesis of the Troll Church) An good aid climb up the centre of the big smooth wall in the centre of the cliff. This is one of the hardest aid climbs on Lofoten and is a major undertaking. The required rack includes small-to-mid cams, 3 knifeblades, 5 lost arrows, 4 rurps, a birdbeak, many micro wires, plenty of small wires, plus assorted copperheads. Start under the blank wall split by a single thin vertical crack.
1) A3, 35m. 'The Dream of Two Wings Pitch'. Climb a short crack to a ladder of 5 bolts then aid a thin vertical crack up the face on rurps and copperheads to a flake. Then up another thin crack to a hanging belay at 2 bolts.
2) A3, 25m. 'The Golden Parachute Pitch'. Start with a traverse left on copperheads and micro wires, then aid easier cracks to a good belay - half-hanging - at 2 bolts. Abseil off from here, or continue.....
3 and 4) 6-, 50m. Up cracks for two more pitches to the top.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Poulsen 11.1993. They abseiled off at the top of pitch 2.


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