Spurven

2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Graunchy
 6+

Adjacent Routes
<< The Approach Pitch < Colibrien  |  Spurven/Colibrien > Havørnen >>


(The Sparrow) The first route on Trollfestningen and an excellent outing, though the line involves a poorly-protected wide crack and serious traverse. As a result, it sees less attention than it deserves.<br/>1) N5+, 30m. Climb right and left to reach a crack, then head up this, past some technical grass climbing and a tough wide section (laybacked or thrutched - often wet) to a small stance.<br/>2) N5, 30m. Continue up the easier crack above to reach the right-hand end of the second grass terrace. There is a double-bolt belay/abseil anchor on the right.<br/>3) N6+, 40m. On the far right above the ledge is a wide crack in a corner (the crack above the stance is a top-rope pitch (N6+) and the crack to the left is pitch 3 of Havørnen). Climb this - strenuous and awkward to protect - then make a poorly-protected traverse to the right across the slabby face to ledges. Now scramble up and left to the double-bolt belay of Colibrien. <br/>4) N5+, 40m. Step right and climb the jamming crack into the deep groove, then continue up into a chimney on the left side of a tall flake. Climb the chimney, almost to its top, then make an awkward escape out right to the upper crack system. Belay at a restricted stance, a little higher, at a rock spike with slings.<br/>5) N3+, 30m. Climb the easy-angled right-trending ramp (often damp) leading to a double-bolt belay on the shoulder.
FA. Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog 7.1977

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