<< Cmelák < Nemesis trollkirka | Spurven/Colibrien > Havørnen >>
(The Sparrow) The first route on Trollfestningen and an excellent outing though the line involves a poorly-protected wide crack and serious traverse (pitch 3). As a result, it sees less attention than it deserves.
1) 5+, 30m. Climb right and left to reach a crack then head up this, past some technical grass climbing, and a tough wide section (laybacked or thrutched - often wet) to a restricted stance.
2) 5, 30m. Continue up the easier crack above to reach the right-hand end of the second grass terrace. There is a double-bolt belay/abseil anchor on the right.
3) 6+, 40m. On the far right above the ledge is a wide crack in a corner (the crack above the stance is a top-rope pitch (6+) the crack to the left is pitch 3 of Havørnen). Climb this - strenuous and awkward to protect - then make a poorly-protected traverse to the right across the slabby face to ledges. Now scramble up and left to the double-bolt belay shared with Colibrien.
4) 5+, 40m. Step right and climb the jamming crack into the deep groove then continue up into a chimney on the left side of a tall flake. Climb the chimney, almost to its top, then make an awkward escape out right to reach the upper crack system. Belay at a restricted stance, a little higher, at a rock spike with slings.
5) 3+, 30m. Climb the easy-angled right-trending ramp (often damp) leading to a double-bolt belay on the shoulder on the right.
FA. Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog 7.1977