5 A2

Adjacent Routes
<< Havørnen < After Work  |  Anachronism > None >>

(The Crane Dance) This five pitch route is on a smaller cliff to the right (northwest) of Trollfestingen. The start of the route is at the same height as the finish of Spurven and little is known about it other than the description given by the first ascensionists - treat the information with caution. The first ascent team used several skyhook moves, but this aid section might go free with effort and modern gear.
"Hike up the Trolldalen path almost to Trolldalsvatnet (the Kalle reservoir), then bushwack up the hillside to the right of Trollfestningen to a grassy ramp that slants up and left to the cliff base. Begin below an inviting looking V-groove which is up and right of a block near the centre of the cliff.
1) 4, 10m. Below the block, a short traverse right leads to a belay at the base of the corner.
2) 5-, ?m. Climb the corner, then move slightly right and up easier weaknesses past a block to a belay.
3) ?, ?m. Step left, then head up and right along a grassy ledge into a deep chimney behind a big block. Belay on top of the block.
4) 5 A2, ?m. Traverse right across a short wall into a small corner (A2, six points of aid) followed to a steep slab with a faint crack. When the crack ends, skyhook right for 4 moves to easier ground. Climb a slab and a left-slanting corner to the belay.
5) An easy slab and a chimney gain the top."
FA. Arild Meyer, Finn Tore Bjørnstad 8.1977


We put up a new route on the next summit to the south of Tranedansen. It's the obvious hand/finger crack line in the middle of the cliff that ends into the summit. Grade is about 6- and it's about 60 meters. Start a little to the left of the boulders using the finger crack in a groove/corner.
jukka leinonen - 10/Jul/11

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