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(Eagle Ridge) An interesting climb with an exciting finish plus the bonus of a nice summit. Protection is generally good, but there is some crumbly rock on the first pitch.
1) 5, 38m. Begin under the steep section of the ridge, in a sandy gully. Head straight up a steep groove to a crack on the right side of the ridge. Alternatively (easier) reach the start of the crack by traversing left under a roof. Both starts have some poor rock and loose flakes, though it doesn't detract too much from the climbing. Jam the crack, step out onto the steep left-hand wall and move up right to a small stance on the arete.
2) 5+, 32m. Step right into an easy crack and climb to its top. Traverse left and follow another vertical crack to an exposed ledge on the left, under a leaning wall, which fortunately is equipped with huge holds. Sprint up this to an excellent belay ledge. The loose groove to the right is an oft-climbed (poor) variation that isn't any easier.
3) 30m. Walk right on the ledge, then move up and back left (one awkward move up a corner) to reach the flat summit of Glåmtinden complete with summit log.
FA. Thorbjørn Enevold, Brynjar Østgaard, Odd-Birger Hanssen 11.6.1993
A really nice day out. A short day but some pleasant climbing.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08
Really nice approach, viewsand descent. The rock quality in the grade 5 pitch was poor at least in the left hand side variation. The grade 5+ pitch was really steep with good holds - nice!
jukka leinonen - 14/Jun/10
We climbed a Variation some 5meters to the right of the Original route. The Variation is straighter than the Original and has 3 pitches (5-/5+/5). The protection is good all the way. We had bad weather and did the short start but the climbing should be better with the Direkte-Innsteget.
1) Climb obliquely to the right in the sandy gully as in the right-hand variation of Original Ørneryggen. Instead of traversing back to the left continue upwards some 10 meters. The first belay station is in a good stance next to an obelisk (about 55meters or 25meters depending on whether you take the Direkte-Innsteget or not).
2) Continue straight upwards the steep wall using good holds and cracks. Surpass a small roof after climbing some 15meters. After that the Variation and the Original go together briefly where the Original diverts to the right at start of its 5+ pitch. Continue straight upwards toward a hole in the roof to gain the big ledge (45meters).
3) Continue straight upwards 3 meters using first good holds and then a 3-meter hand crack. After that it's easy scrambling to the summit!
jukka leinonen - 07/Jun/11
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