Highway to Heaven

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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Originally the cause of some controversy, this route involved a lot of highly visible cleaning. It ascends the gradually disappearing pale stripe up the upper right-hand face of The Goat's front face. Each of the main pitches has a short aid section at the start then some strenuous jamming. Carry a few blades and lost arrow pegs for the aid.<br/>1) 30m. Climb steep exposed and scary grass and ferns to reach a ledge at the foot of the prominent crack system.<br/>2) N7, 45m. Climb the serious crack (the first 8m can be aided at N6+/A2) and continue up a thin vertical crack until a hollow flake can be free climbed to a possible stance. Belay or continue up the off-width to easier cracks and a small stance on the right.<br/>3) N6+/A1, 35m. Aid the smooth face on the right (2 bolts) then free climb up the exposed and strenuous right-trending crack.
FA. Ed Webster, Odd-Roar Wiik 12.8.1991. Two days were spent cleaning the route. They were met upon their descent after one day of cleaning by a local policeman and the Svolvær Mountain Rescue team. Their dislodging of loose rocks and warning shouts had prompted an elderly woman to telephone the police to say some climbers needed rescuing. This was duly reported the next day on the local radio and in Lofotposten. Øyvind Vadla free climbed part of pitch 2 on 2.7.1993


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