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A great route and an astounding effort for its day. The climb remains steep and intimidating, with a great atmosphere and a spectacular finale.
1) 4+, 22m. A steep start up the right-hand groove (easier just to the left) leads to ledges, continue up a flake on the left and a steep juggy groove/chimney to a stance on the right with spike belays, a short distance below the shoulder.
2) 4+, 14m. 'The Rubenson Traverse'. Trend diagonally left across the steep and exposed wall, on a line of superb jugs, passing a couple of pegs. Make an exposed move round the arete to a good stance and double-bolt belay.
3) 4+, 20m. Continue up the deep groove system on the left to reach the notch between the horns (view). Traverse right across the inner face past flakes (exposed) to reach the western arete of the Storhorn and climb this to the top. Cross the gap to a belay on gear on the Lillehorn. Take care with rope work on this pitch.
FA. C.W.Rubenson, A.B.Bryn, F.Shcjelderup 1910
Did it in one megapitch from the ground, but with only 3 placements to avoid ropedrag. I would do it again like this. Nice climbing, but not worth doing it as a multipitch route. Top50 maybe for the nice summit, but not for the quality of the climbing.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12
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