Amptrax Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Pa' lante amigos < Son quatros  |  Z Mapp > Ebola >>

This is the most popular multi-pitch climb on Frontales, which gives good steep climbing and is fully bolted although not so much on the easy first pitch. Reach the start by scrambling up to the grassy bay above the path. Start at a left-leading ramp.<br/><br/>1) 3a, 25m. Follow the ramp easily leftwards to a belay.<br/>2) 5c, 30m. Move up to a smooth wall. Climb its left-hand side and the ramp above to a belay.<br/>3) 5c, 15m. Head up steeply to a stance and belay.<br/>4) 6a, 16m. Climb the steep white wall to a belay.<br/>5) 6a, 20m. Climb the wall with difficulty and continue to a belay and stance below the steep headwall. <br/>6) 6a, 20m. Make an exciting traverse right to a belay. <br/>7) 5b, 25m. Climb up right to a bolted stance.<br/>8) 4c, 15m. Continue in the same line to a belay. You can abseil down Ebola from here or push on for the summit experience.<br/>9) 3a, 15m. Climb easy but slightly loose ground to ledges


Many come back rather disappointed from this route.
Many also abseil off when it comes to the traverse.
martin - 24/Oct/08

Well worth going all the way to the top for the summit experience. Unless abseiling the best descent seems to be rightwards over the back of the crag. A well equipped route and an extremely enjoyable way to spend an afternoon.
Angus Malcolm - 07/Nov/08

We started at the top left of the grassy bay, and the line can be identified from the overhang at the top of pitch 4. We didn't identify an obvious 35m ramp. From the bay scrambling up and left over broken rock leads to the first belay (pair of bolts) in about 15m.

There are four well equipped pitches above leading to the traverse; each is steep and sustained with large holds; 1) 15m 5+ 2) 15m 5 3) 15m 5+ 4) 15m 6a. We climbed to the traverse in three pitches linking 3 and 4, it could be done in two.
Brilliant and enjoyable...
Steve Scott - 26/Nov/08

An excellent route, well worth doing. Watch out for the walk off though - we couldn't find the path and almost spent the night out there.
Kevin Bowser - 22/Dec/08

Excellant route, description is spot on, even I didn't lost. Definately worth continuing to the top, there is some nice clean rock on the last pitch (head slightly left) and the walk down is pleasant. Great route for watching the vultures circling !!
chris_moor - 19/Jan/09

The guidebook description is much better than this one, though I would put the final pitch before the traverse as 6a+.

we followed chalk and threads up to the abseil station (just below the large tree near the overlap on the left) in one pitch after the traverse - the ab station is where the line on the topo turns back left for the last time. From here it is not worth going further up - a scramble up loose rock etc leads to an uninteresting walk down.
jamface - 27/Jul/09

Did the route yesterday. At a normal day be prepared to see other teams on the route. The first pitch is 15 m grade 4 without bolts, most people chain this with the next pitch on the left of a large plate, at the grad 5+. In som ways this pitch was the hardest part of the route, well bolted though. The next belay had one new bolt and 4 really old ones. From there its exellent climbing straigth up, at grade 5 - 6, short pitches that can be connected. At the top of the sport pitches, the route traverses to the right and the route changes character. The first traverse pitch is equipped wich pegs and a bolt that you don't need additional pro. The next traverse pitch has none, save two threads. Start this pitch with going 10 m straight up, then to the right and more upwards to the belay station. From here you can do 4 abseils with a 70 m rope, the first two abseils are stretched at 35 m.
Olav Vestlie - 09/Apr/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.