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This is the most popular multi-pitch climb on Frontales and can be busy. The route gives excellent, steep climbing for the grade and is fully bolted from pitches 2 to 4. Some gear will be required for the first pitch (which is very easy) and, if intending to go to the top, the last three. Reach the start by scrambling up to the grassy bay above the path beneath an obvious ramp.
1) 3, 35m. Follow the ramp until you need to put a rope on.
2) 5+, 15m. Climb steeply up and left, then make an exposed move right to stand on top of a flake. Continue to 2 bolt belay.
3) 5+, 15m. Another steep pitch on good holds.
4) 6a, 20m. Straight up to a belay below a roof.
5) 5+, 20m. Continue straight up for about 10m and then traverse out horizontally right to another belay.
6) 4+, 25m and 7) 4+, 30m. Two more pitches to the top.


Many come back rather disappointed from this route.
Many also abseil off when it comes to the traverse.
martin - 24/Oct/08

Well worth going all the way to the top for the summit experience. Unless abseiling the best descent seems to be rightwards over the back of the crag. A well equipped route and an extremely enjoyable way to spend an afternoon.
Angus Malcolm - 07/Nov/08

We started at the top left of the grassy bay, and the line can be identified from the overhang at the top of pitch 4. We didn't identify an obvious 35m ramp. From the bay scrambling up and left over broken rock leads to the first belay (pair of bolts) in about 15m.

There are four well equipped pitches above leading to the traverse; each is steep and sustained with large holds; 1) 15m 5+ 2) 15m 5 3) 15m 5+ 4) 15m 6a. We climbed to the traverse in three pitches linking 3 and 4, it could be done in two.
Brilliant and enjoyable...
Steve Scott - 26/Nov/08

An excellent route, well worth doing. Watch out for the walk off though - we couldn't find the path and almost spent the night out there.
Kevin Bowser - 22/Dec/08

Excellant route, description is spot on, even I didn't lost. Definately worth continuing to the top, there is some nice clean rock on the last pitch (head slightly left) and the walk down is pleasant. Great route for watching the vultures circling !!
chris_moor - 19/Jan/09

The guidebook description is much better than this one, though I would put the final pitch before the traverse as 6a+.

we followed chalk and threads up to the abseil station (just below the large tree near the overlap on the left) in one pitch after the traverse - the ab station is where the line on the topo turns back left for the last time. From here it is not worth going further up - a scramble up loose rock etc leads to an uninteresting walk down.
jamface - 27/Jul/09

Did the route yesterday. At a normal day be prepared to see other teams on the route. The first pitch is 15 m grade 4 without bolts, most people chain this with the next pitch on the left of a large plate, at the grad 5+. In som ways this pitch was the hardest part of the route, well bolted though. The next belay had one new bolt and 4 really old ones. From there its exellent climbing straigth up, at grade 5 - 6, short pitches that can be connected. At the top of the sport pitches, the route traverses to the right and the route changes character. The first traverse pitch is equipped wich pegs and a bolt that you don't need additional pro. The next traverse pitch has none, save two threads. Start this pitch with going 10 m straight up, then to the right and more upwards to the belay station. From here you can do 4 abseils with a 70 m rope, the first two abseils are stretched at 35 m.
Olav Vestlie - 09/Apr/11

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