3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Monsters forever < Material belico  |  La bella y la bestia > Chiripitiglauticos >>

The classic route of the wall follows a series of excellent grooves and cracks.
1) 6a+, 2) 6b+. Two well-bolted pitches gain the mid-height ledge system.
3) 5, 4) 6b+. There is a hard direct finish to the right of the last pitch at 7a+.


This is a fantastic adventure of a climb, but is much harder than the guidebook indicates. You will need a 60m rope to abseil to the ledge, do not try to stretch to 52m on a 50m rope it will not reach. The first two pitches are NOT well bolted, the bolts are widely spaced and very old. There are NO bolts on pitch 3 and 4 has one not very helpful bolt. Take a full rack, including medium and large cams. I have done easier 6c than the 6b+ of pitch 2 and the last pitch is even harder. If none of this has put you off it is a brilliant, fantastic route that you will enjoy recalling for years.
Ian Wyatt - 21/Apr/09

This is an intimidating wall. Started up Africa P1 which has just 3 rusty bolts. Later traversed across to do P2 of La Bella y la Bestia which is better equipped with rusty bolts. Finally traversed of wall to the R to a lower-off back to cave. Full rack, 60m ropes taken. Info in guidebook suspect.
clams - 01/Jun/10

Whoops I meant "traversed across to do P2 of La Dame del Viento 6c which is better quipped..."
clams - 01/Jun/10

We abbed in from the old belay point (didn't see the newer better anchor higher up) and had plenty of rope with a 100m rope doubled over, should be OK even from the higher anchor. Felt about HVS,E3,HVS,E2 if you don't trust the bolts. The belay bolts are solid though. Take 1-10 wires and med-large cams
mark20 - 31/Dec/11

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