3 Stars

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This El Chorro classic is a superb long climb. The route is well equipped but take a small rack to supplement the fixed gear. Pitches 4 and 5, which are much harder than the others, can be climbed using some aid. Start at the base of the long slab which leads up to the prominent roof.
1) 4+, 20m. Climb the slab to a belay at some trees.
2) 6a+, 25m. Continue up the pleasant slab to a bush
3) 5+, 25m. Climb up more slabs to a stance under the prominent roof.
4) 6c, 20m. The roof is overcome by an exciting and strenuous traverse to a hanging stance on the lip.
5) 6c+, 25m. Hard moves above the stance lead left to easier climbing back right above. Don’t go too far left. Worth 7a if combined with the previous pitch since the belay becomes a point of aid.
6) 5+, 30m. The slab rightwards via crack and bolts is a bit thin.
7) 6b+, 25m. Follow the crack in the groove above then move right and up onto the ridge.
8) 3, 40m. Scramble easily rightwards along the ridge to belay behind a tree on the right.
9) 6b, 35m. Climb the corner to the top of a pinnacle then continue up the wall above.
10) 65m. Scramble up the left-hand side of the ridge.
Descent - Scramble left down a large terrace, below some large caves, back down to the railway line.


Awesome route! I climbed this route in February with a friend. The roof pitches are quite hard for their grade, especially the first pitch which is quite polished. We were able to haul up our bag, so the follower good climb without it. You can clip the first two bolts for the second roof pitch. I have written an article about the route on my blog: compareoutdoorgear.com/climbing-zeppelin/
Benne - 01/Aug/18

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