Zoolook Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Straightened < G.B.H.  |  Well Dunne Finish > Predator >>

Malham's first 8a. A famous and magnificent climb which starts below a chunky flake. Gaining the flake is tricky, however the sustained upper wall provides most of the difficulties with fingery moves on side-pulls, with always the nagging question as to whether to clip the crucial bolt or push on and risk the mega-lob. There is an infamous rest at half-height.
FA. Ron Fawcett 14.6.1985


A long quickdraw on the tricky bolt makes clipping easier (it isn't that bad anyway!). It also reduces rope drag at the top of the route, which is noticable if you don't do this.

All in all, a route of exeptional quality and one which is definately stiff for the grade. With what is predominantly a fitness orientated route, this alone wont get you up it. You have to pull pretty hard too!

The "infamous" rest refers to the first ascentionist wearing a helmet to wedge his head into the cave in order to gain a hands off rest. The story goes that the second ascentionist managed a hands off rest also, but without the helmet! I unfortunately found no such rest and instead opted for the standard arm alternating!
John Cooke - 16/Apr/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

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