3 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Amber Nectar < Greystoke  |  Tarzan > Forth Coming >>

A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. This pitch is now dirty and loose so it is better to start up Carnage Left-hand.
2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the ageing peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous mantelshelf ledge. Pass this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. The Blinds Finish takes the groove above the mantelshelf ledge. Should the aid peg disappear then you can climb the tree to get around the overhang.
FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979. FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 23.5.1965,FA. (The Blinds Finish) Tony and Robin Barley 10.1965


Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1
Richard Jewell - 15/Jul/02

The peg is well past it's sell by date - not long to go now - and what a peel for someone when it does!
Paul Clarke - 24/Feb/04

start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon
ged - 16/Jun/04

First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree.

I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches
kevin stephens - 31/Jul/05

Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder
kevin stephens - 31/Jul/05

avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet!
phatlad - 30/Aug/05

2 very contrasting pitches, my partner took the 1st pitch up the crack and took big lobs onto a very bendy peg scary and hard 5C. Traverse far further left than you would imagine on pitch 1, to a hidden ring bolt peg, then up. The description in the BMC guide is well worth checking out.
Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant, but a little EPIC!
Compo - 28/Sep/09

P1 covered in crud, don't do it. If you do do it, the traverse back left should be HORIZONTAL to a peg, not rising. It is possible to do a rising traverse, but it is VERY dirty, with a single hold - a creaky looking undercut. The traverse has gear at either end but none in the middle.
Jon Leighton - 01/Jun/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 14
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