Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.
Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1
The peg is well past it's sell by date - not long to go now - and what a peel for someone when it does!
start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon
First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree.
Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder
avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet!
2 very contrasting pitches, my partner took the 1st pitch up the crack and took big lobs onto a very bendy peg scary and hard 5C. Traverse far further left than you would imagine on pitch 1, to a hidden ring bolt peg, then up. The description in the BMC guide is well worth checking out.
P1 covered in crud, don't do it. If you do do it, the traverse back left should be HORIZONTAL to a peg, not rising. It is possible to do a rising traverse, but it is VERY dirty, with a single hold - a creaky looking undercut. The traverse has gear at either end but none in the middle.