2 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
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Low in the grade, though the loss of a hold has made it even harder for the short than it used to be. The face right of the arete has hard moves above the roof to the ear. Escape right below the roofs or throw yourself at the next offering.
FA. John Gosling 1971


Nice soft touch and friendly. One hard move next to the gear....makes a lot of E1's look well over graded. Loads of gear and big jugs, please make all E2's this easy.
Simon Shaw - 16/Apr/02

Just how tall's this Simon Shaw? That's what I want to know! The gear's good, granted - but the
RP1 - 27/Mar/03

Easy for the grade (except i guess for midgets!)
mark s davies - 04/Oct/03

Another E2 i've got really psyched for then found a peice of piss.I found the crux the traverse off under the rooves!
Roberto - 09/Dec/03

This was first E2, although not desperate the reaches were quite long. The traverse at the end wasn't hard - but it feels tricky on tiring arms.
Overall a really good route, bomber gear, good holds and ncie moves
LankyPaddy - 13/Nov/04

Lovely reach, when you finally get your feet high enough to hit the flake with all four fingers it all falls into place. Bomber gear.
SteveM - 09/May/05

I'd forgetten I'd done this and so did it again and found it just as satisfying. I agree the crux felt liek the traverse. The long reach is made easier by using the undercut properlyl. I'm only 5'10' and manage to get three fingers onto the crucila hold comfortably. Loads of gear after that and some rests make this a enjoyable and doable E2 (ish)..
Sishaw - 25/Jul/05

brilliant route, very easy for E2, worth the grade if you are short maybe. But good none the less.
MC - 15/Nov/05

Yeah, aggree as above the reach from the undercuts is crux but if you use the hold on the right and reach for the ear with your left it feels better. Excellent route but cant see how its E2, pro is bomber and at waist height for the difficult move.
adamB - 17/Nov/05

Where is the long reach on this route? I am 5'8" and very easily reached from the left undercut to the flake with my right hand. Felt like E1 5B.
craig devonshire - 02/Jun/07

The long reach just got longer! - or the reached hold got worse - the bottom of the flake has broken off.
Andy - 24/Aug/07

Very nice.
I gave it 3 stars.
Easy for E2 and with excellent gear all the way.
Yes, the flake is gone which made it V tricky for the shorter people who tried it.
richard - 07/Oct/07

this route is no longer soft for shorties (me), I could do laps on Billy Whizz before I'll ever reach the now broken flake.
Jon Leighton - 16/Sep/09

Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 in either case though.
Alan James - 19/Oct/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 117
    hard E3 0 of 40
    E3 0 of 40
    easy E3 0 of 40
    hard E2 1 of 40
    E2 6 of 40
    easy E2 21 of 40
    hard E1 12 of 40
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    hard 5c 0 of 39
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    hard 5b 0 of 39
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    easy 5b 0 of 39
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    hard 4c 0 of 39
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    hard 4b 0 of 39
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    easy 4b 0 of 39
    hard 4a 0 of 39
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    hard 3c 0 of 39
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    hard 3b 0 of 39
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    hard 3a 0 of 39
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    hard 2c 0 of 39
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    hard ?? 0 of 39
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    ?? 19 of 39
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    hard ?? 7 of 39
    ?? 0 of 39
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    3 Stars 3 of 38
    2 Stars 31 of 38
    1 Star 4 of 38
    0 Stars 0 of 38
    Bag of ..... 0 of 38

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