Neb Buttress

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Auricle < Jumping Jack Longland  |  Bamford Rib > Bramble Crack >>

Classy - the original and best! Climb the crack to its top then traverse left past the arete, where a crack and short wall lead to an escape out right. Double ropes and some attention to their organisation is a sensible idea.
FA. Allan Austin 1958


the direct version using the arete below the usual finish seemed harder than 5a and it makes the finish harder than when climbed the normal way
michael simpson - 15/Oct/02

After my partner became exhausted trying the final juggy crack, he lowered off and i climbed the lovely arete, where my partners' high point I found all the good jams in the crack blocked by the gear. Overall I thought it quite stiff for a severe
Jon Greengrass - 13/Mar/03

A great climb but quite soft for an HVS if climbed with confidence. The arete start is harder but not harder than 5a unless you miss the holds.
Steve C - 12/Oct/03

HVS all the way. Don't miss the hands off rest as you swing around the arete - your arms will thank you on the upper cracks.
SteveM - 27/Oct/03

Fantastic route. The direct version seems the logical line - not sure why you'd want to go indirect.
chris s - 03/May/05

Great route. Direct start seems more logical and more appealing. Sustained and slightly overhanging - didn't find the hands-free rest so was getting a bit pumped - but the gear is good. Bit reachy in the middle ?
Chris the Tall - 13/May/05

Lovely climb, do take the direct though and try to stay cool on the final traverse. There's always just enough holds, and what a situation!
Derek Morton - 19/Jul/05

Wonderfull route, but draining. Or perhaps I'm just not fit. Can't agree about the direct though. While it seems more obvious and logical, the traditional line is simply spectacular. This route has it all.
Ché Gananrelli - 19/Sep/05

Brilliant route with a line that begs to be climbed. The arete direct approach is awkward
as your gear is around the left, but it's all bomber. The top out is very well protected with #3/3 1/2 friends.
Jack Tracy - 20/Sep/05

I'm pleased to be able to agree with all the comments about the direct start.
It makes far more sense to me.
And what a superb HVS. It just keeps coming.
Definitely 3 stars.
richard - 07/Oct/07

Super route, did the indirect and thought it was brilliant. The initial crack's better than it looks and the final steep wall is a bit of a thunderpump but safe as houses. Best route I've done at Bamford.
Dave Foster - 14/Oct/08

On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish.
slippy - 18/Jun/14

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 134
    hard E1 0 of 45
    E1 0 of 45
    easy E1 0 of 45
    hard HVS 2 of 45
    HVS 40 of 45
    easy HVS 3 of 45
    hard VS 0 of 45
    VS 0 of 45
    easy VS 0 of 45
    hard 5b 0 of 45
    5b 0 of 45
    easy 5b 2 of 45
    hard 5a 14 of 45
    5a 25 of 45
    easy 5a 4 of 45
    hard 4c 0 of 45
    4c 0 of 45
    easy 4c 0 of 45
    3 Stars 34 of 44
    2 Stars 9 of 44
    1 Star 1 of 44
    0 Stars 0 of 44
    Bag of ..... 0 of 44

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.