<< None < Skylon | Brute 33 > Unicorn >>
A classic route with fantastic hexagonal columns on the final bold pitch.
1) 18m. Start as for Skylon, but traverse right from below the first overhang to a ramp, then continue right to a good ledge.
2) 20m. Climb a wide crack at the right-hand end of the ledge and ascend it to another ledge. Move rightwards for a few metres to gain a groove leading back left to a good ledge with a big spike belay. The direct version of this pitch, up a steep groove, is also possible at about the same grade.
3) 30m. From the right-hand end of the ledge, climb up onto a ledge below the hexagonal columns that form the slab. Make your way tentatively up the superb wobbly-jug-infested wall until a broken corner leads up to a terrace. Belay well back.
FA. M.Ward, J.Barford, B.Pierre 5.1947
skylon deserves the 2 stars and top 50... wrinkle is over rated
hanger06 - 05/Apr/10
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