Old Holborn

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Zangorilla < Trilon  |  None > None >>


A superbly-exposed finale makes this a tremendous outing, although it is high in the grade.
1) 4c, 27m. Start at a small rib flanked on both sides by grooves. Climb the groove on the right of the rib, then surmount the rib itself. From its top, move right onto a slanting rake. Follow this to belay in the holly trees.
2) 4c, 9m. Follow the short groove on the left side of the ledge, passing a detached flake to gain a large ledge and tree belay over to the left.
3) 5b, 27m. The pitch! A superbly-sustained groove above the belay leads to a step right. Pass a loose block with care to reach the large roof above. A wild monkey-swing through the roof gains a ledge on the left. Step back up and right towards the steep arete to small ledges and interesting belays.
4) 5a, 18m. Trend rightwards up the steep face with sparse protection.
FA. P.Crew, B.Ingle, D.Potts 5.1963

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