Direct Route

3 Stars
 VS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Lorraine Direct < GBH  |  Super Direct > Diagonal >>


One for the well-rounded VS leader, although some will find the entrance to the final pitch baffling.
1) 4a, 15m. From the toe of the buttress, scramble past the twin pinnacles and head up for 10m. Traverse left to belay as for Lorraine.
2) 4b, 25m. Go up and right, passing a blunt rib, to reach a crack leading to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this into the groove and follow it to a good belay in a bay.
3) 4c, 15m. Move up right to a diagonal crack. Make the infamous and enjoyable hand-traverse along this to a step right. Head up to cracks and onto a large ledge and flake/bollard belay.
4) 5b, 18m. Traverse left to the well-polished start of the corner. A desperate move off the ledge allows access to the easier flake cracks and a corner above.
FA. C.Kirkus, J.Dodd 22.6.1930

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard HVS 0 of 1
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