3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Direct Route < Super Direct  |  Zeta > Stairway to Heaven >>

A fantastic, exciting and technical route.
1) 5a, 30m. Start as for Direct Route to where it moves left. Follow a groove rightwards to the left of the rock scar. Climb the left side of a flake, then traverse delicately right to a good stance under a small overhang, there is some better gear to the right.
2) 5a, 15m. Head straight up the right-hand side of the overhang to a good wire, and then make a testing traverse right under the overlap to below the chimney. Ascend the chimney with the help of the right wall and climb it to a small stance on the left in a thin crack.
3) 5a, 20m. Traverse right to a scoop, follow this and go right to a bold mantel onto a ledge. Go up (pocket) to a crack then onto a stance.
4) 4c, 15m. The main corner above is much tougher than it looks. Move up into the corner to where it gets hard and utilise the crack on the left to reach the top. This pitch responds best to a brute-force-and-ignorance approach.
FA. A.Birtwhistle, G.Parkinson 10.8.1938


FA is Birtwistle not Birtwhistle.
Alan James - 14/Sep/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E1 0 of 2
    E1 0 of 2
    easy E1 0 of 2
    hard HVS 1 of 2
    HVS 1 of 2
    easy HVS 0 of 2
    hard VS 0 of 2
    VS 0 of 2
    easy VS 0 of 2
    hard 5b 0 of 2
    5b 0 of 2
    easy 5b 0 of 2
    hard 5a 1 of 2
    5a 1 of 2
    easy 5a 0 of 2
    hard 4c 0 of 2
    4c 0 of 2
    easy 4c 0 of 2
    3 Stars 2 of 2
    2 Stars 0 of 2
    1 Star 0 of 2
    0 Stars 0 of 2
    Bag of ..... 0 of 2

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