Ten Degrees North
<< Black Spring < Plexus | Nexus > The Windmill >>
One the best crux sequences in the Pass. You may well end up bamboozled or even end up body-bridging Quarryman style across the groove!
1) 20m. As for Plexus P1, but belay just below and to the right of the Plexus belay.
2) 5b, 10m. Climb a wall then head right (peg) to the groove. From the base of this, make a step out left onto an obvious foothold, and a tricky mantel to get into the scooped slab above; all quite blind! Belay on the slab.
3) 5c, 20m. Smear, palm and contort up the rounded groove to reach a small roof. Pass this on the right and climb up to a peg, then head to a small overhang and trend up and right to a good belay just right of the huge capping roof.
4) 5b, 10m. Move up into the booming flake directly above the belay and climb up to reach the traverse line of Nexus. This leads left round the arete to belay at the perched block on P3 of Plexus. This can be a bit of a bun fight on a busy day as three classic routes converge here.
5) 4b, 20m. Climb the rest of P3 and then P4 of Plexus in one.
FA. A.Sharp, J.Zangwill 27.6.1974
Very dirty after the appalling summer of 2012. Friction climbing on frictionless lichen? I fell off!
Jon Stewart - 07/Sep/12
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