Gashed Crag Top 50

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Stepped Crack < Mossy Slab  |  Munich Climb > Overlapping Ridge Route >>

A great, long route up the striking ridge passing the overhang of the Gash.
1) 45m. Start 35m left of South Gully, just above a widening in the terrace. Follow a small groove to an overlap at 9m. Turn this rightwards and climb easier ground up and right to ledges beneath the ridge proper and the left-hand end of the Gash.
2) 18m. Follow the ribbed wall up to the large sloping ledge of the Gash, a feature that looks like a giant took a swing with an axe at the crag. Belay on the far right beneath the chimney.
3) 20m. Follow the awkward chimney. On the final move, your foot will slip several times before you finally get enough purchase to escape. Climb the wall above leftwards to the ridge.
4) 38m. Follow the exposed and rough ridge (various belays possible).
5) 38m. Continue up the ridge to reach a good ledge below the final tower.
6) 17m. Several alternatives can be found here, most feel hard. Climb the groove past a tricky roof.
FA. H.Buckle, G.Barlow 9.1902


Warning: this climb can be a wet, slippery line up the face when eveything else on the mountain is completely dry.
Simon Brown - 18/Mar/10

good climb, but the chimney was very polished
james_hill81 - 27/Jun/13

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