Direct Route Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Crosscut < Super Direct  |  Rowan Route > Pulpit Route/Ivy Chimney >>

A classic outing, described here with a more direct start up the crack. The original start climbs the diagonal corner on the left.

1) 32m. Start at the polished finger-crack in the centre of the slab. Follow this to gain the diagonal overlap which is followed rightwards to a niche. Move left through the overlap to gain the slab on the left and make a tricky manoeuvre through the overlap and onto the large ledge.
2) 30m. Climb the groove behind the flake, stepping left at a steepening and continuing up the groove to a "leg width" crack. Surmount this amusing obstacle to a niche. Continue up the fault to a huge block, and hand traverse leftwards below this, striding wildly across a chasm at its end into a large bay. Move up to the back left of the bay and belay below a large chimney
3) 12m. The crux chimney! Squirm up the chimney at the back of the bay. Some holds on the right wall might be useful. An alternative, easier finish climbs the wall on the right.
FA. G.Barlow, H.Priestley-Smith 1910


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