Pulpit Route/Ivy Chimney

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Direct Route < Rowan Route  |  Wall Climb > Bochlwyd Eliminate >>

Just left of the descent gully lies this interesting and varied route. Another good one for those with limited multi-pitch experience or those who enjoy comfortable belay ledges.
1) 28m. Climb the slab left of the rib on large holds to reach a small ledge. Climb up through a crack to get stood on the towering block on the left, the Pulpit and belay.
2) 28m. Move left onto the slab with hands in a break. Make a tricky step up to gain the slab above and traverse up and left to a steep groove. A puzzling move gains the slot/slab which is followed to a good belay on a flatter area of rock.
3) 12m. Scramble rightwards. You can descend by abseiling from a massive spike into the gully, or by descending a groove by the spike and then scrambling right along a blocky ledge into the gully. If you wish to keep climbing then continue along the ledge to beneath the gaping chimney and belay as for Ivy Chimney.
4) 15m. A steep few moves guard the entrance to the chimney. Walk back and exit right up a steep section and through a hole. Belay on a perched block.
5) 10m. Climb up the exposed rib on the right to the top.
FA. G.Barlow, E.Barlow 7.1911


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