Route Grade Votings
A fun outing that lies close to the A5 and catches sun for much of the day. The first pitch has lovely rock and the final traverse negotiates some interesting gendarmes not unlike an alpine ridge. Start at the base of the ridge close to the letters PR scratched in the rock.
A decent route - Route 2 at Severe on the next buttress over is much better though and really should be in the book instead of this one, or better, both in.
The topo in the 2013 North Wales Climbs guidebook looks wrong to me. The line should be the ridge way over to the left of the one shown. This is what threw me when I was attempting to find the beginning of the route on Saturday. The first pitch in the NWC topo is about 20m, and not the 40m mentioned in the description. I wouldn't like to say what the line in the guidebook goes at, but having dogged my way up it, I'd say around Severe 4a (sustained hand jamming). I am totally out of shape though, so who knows. Thanks to the other team heading up the real start of Pinnacle Ridge, who we discussed this with. As well as a 40m first pitch, they also saw PR scratched into the rock at the bottom of their route. I've had a look at the old Paul Williams guide, which seems to confirm what I'm saying here.