Amphitheatre Buttress Top 50

3 Stars

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A long mountain adventure. Never desperate, with stunning views and varied climbing. The route involves some easy scrambling in the mid-section and isn't sustained, but the short tricky sections are interesting and the entire route is over 300m in length. A huge gully drops away beneath Pinnacle Wall. Start 15m above the toe of the buttress that forms the left side of this. The route is not described in individual pitches.

1) 130m. Pleasant, pocketed slab climbing leads to a ledge at 30m. More slabs lead to a tricky groove, above which more easy slab climbing leads onto a large ledge beneath a steep wall.
2) 22m. On the right is the crux groove. A polished corner leads to a large detached block. Continue past this to gain easier ground.
3) 75m. Scramble along paths and vegetated ground to reach the crested ridge.
4) 35m. Traverse the apex of the alpine-esque ridge passing two prominent gendarmes.
5) 60m. Follow the ridge on the right to gain the summit.
FA. G.Abraham, A.Abraham, D.Leighton, J.Puttrell 5.1905


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