Flying Buttress

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Ivy Sepulchre < Grond  |  None > None >>

A superb ridge climb leading to a fine finish high up on the wall. Start at the base of the prominent jagged ridge running down the eastern side of the crag.
1) 20m. Head up the middle of the buttress to belay by a block on a large ledge.
2) 20m. Continue up to the large pinnacles at the top of the main ridge, belaying on the right-hand side of the last spike before the col.
3) 5m. Drop down into the col and belay (skip this belay if you are a confident leader but watch your rope work for the runners placed in the col section).
4) 15m. Climb a grassy crack to gain a leftwards-trending line leading to a superb belay on the arete.
5) 15m. Climb up the lovely slab then trend rightwards to a large sloping ledge below the final chimney.
6) 15m. Entering the chimney via the crack is something of a crux not made easier by the polish of thousands of passing climbers. The awkward section is thankfully short-lived!
Descend the main gully to the right.
FA. J.M.Edwards 18.12.1931


P3 description is inadequate, if you climb straight up the shallow groove on the wall it's VDiff fun for 20m but after a belay ledge there is a nasty wide crack in a blank wall (HS 4c?) to climb to reach belay for pitch 5 (the Direct variation!). Other guides describe traversing up and left on pitch 3.
Duncan Beard - 12/Apr/12

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