King's Arete

2 Stars
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Vagabond < Il Duce  |  None > None >>

Steep climbing in great positions on Il Duce's right arete. The climbing becomes easier but the rock deteriorates in quality as height is gained. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seaward below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 10m. Traverse left and take a belay on a protruding ledge.
2) 5c, 40m. Climb straight up to a small ledge at 7m using positive holds but with minimal gear. Move diagonally left to the arete and ascend it to a narrow ledge. Move rightwards along the ledge (possible belay) then diagonally back left to the arete again. Follow this to a short steep crack on the right which leads to a belay in a niche.
3) 5b, 30m. Climb steeply on good holds to the right then move back left towards the arete and continue up to reach an easy traverse-line (junction with Il Duce). Follow this rightwards to a fault-line that leads up to the top.
FA. Andy Meyers, Mick Fowler 3.7.1982


No comments on this route. Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    hard E5 0 of 0
    E5 0 of 0
    easy E5 0 of 0
    hard E4 0 of 0
    E4 0 of 0
    easy E4 0 of 0
    hard E3 0 of 0
    E3 0 of 0
    easy E3 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 0
    6a 0 of 0
    easy 6a 0 of 0
    hard 5c 0 of 0
    5c 0 of 0
    easy 5c 0 of 0
    hard 5b 0 of 0
    5b 0 of 0
    easy 5b 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 0
    2 Stars 0 of 0
    1 Star 0 of 0
    0 Stars 0 of 0
    Bag of ..... 0 of 0

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.