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Stunning rock but very serious climbing that is reliant on the ageing pegs. Start on a huge boulder left of the big corner on the right-hand side of the Great Wall.
1) 6a, 40m. Pull onto the easy-angled wall and head for a protruding peg. Traverse left below this, thin tape on low spike, to and up a shallow rising rampline to a point beneath twin pegs. Make thin, bold moves up to the pegs and continue up the fingery wall above them for 5m to better holds and some wires. Move on up the still steep wall to another peg. Climb an easier shallow groove to a good jug, and move right to a corner and climb it to a stance on ledges.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb leftwards to meet the top pitch of Black Magic and finish up this.
FA. Richard 'Nipper" Harrison 8.1983
One of the pegs on the crux section is a stainless steel one so should be in good nick.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10
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