| E6 6a|
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An awe-inspiring route whose main pitch climbs the central section of the severely-overhanging upper buttress. Start as for pitch 1 of America; or at the stance at the top of its first pitch if the tide or sea conditions do not allow access to the base.
1) 5b, 26m. Pitch 1 of America.
2) 5c, 20m. Move rightwards and climb up the slab to meet the corner formed with the steep upper buttress. Climb the slab to the left of the corner and continue to a stance at a crack on the left side of a large block.
3) 6a, 20m. Move up the slab for 3m and climb the wall to a flat handhold. Traverse right to a large block on the edge of an overhang and ascend a thin crack and shallow groove above to a peg and a shake-out on the right. Committing moves up the overhanging wall leftwards lead to flake holds that are traversed steeply right to a large sloping ledge and belay.
4) 5b, 15m. Move steeply left to a huge niche. From here, traverse left until it is possible to gain a corner above that leads to the top.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Hugh Clarke 16.5.1982 (1pt),FFA. Pat Littlejohn 4.1987
Pitch 2 is serious, with little protection. Pitch 3 has good protection where it matters.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10
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