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A long, diagonal expedition crossing the Morning Slab that is serious for both leader and second. Start by scrambling to a tree next to a yellow crumbling wall.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb easily to a cave and move right up a slab then pull into a groove on the right. Move up this and its right wall to an iron spike. Pull up the short steep wall to Breakfast Ledge and a withering tree belay plus low back-up nuts.
2) 4a, 27m. Move right to a vegetated corner and head out along a grass ledge before moving rightwards up the slab to a good, long foot ledge and peg. Shuffle along the ledge till it fades and then climb up the slab to bolt and tree belays.
3) 18m. Climb rightwards to a crack and climb this to the Lunchtime Ledge.
On the first pitch several blocks have gone from the rib above the move round the rib into the groove. There is one left on a sloping ledge that seems to be retained by its own weight alone.Inadvisable to fit a friend under it then make the crux moves below it. The tree has gone form the belay at the top of pitch one to be replaced by a twin bolt belay. The rust-eaten peg on the main slab of pitch 2 has been replaced.
dave w-j - 10/Aug/15
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