| E4 6a|
<< Great Central Route < Clarion | Dexter > Central Buttress >>
Quarried perfection. Sustained and intricate climbing with good protection and rock. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 6a, 30m. Follow Lich Gates to its second (poor) peg and step up left to below a small overhang. Good nuts in a short crack down to its left. Move up over the overhang, 2 pegs, and then climb a flared groove below a pink wall, peg on left, rightwards to a difficult exit, 2 pegs, and a rest on the right. Traverse the fingery break left, 2 pegs, to a bolted stance.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb up the wall on the right, peg out left and a bolt on the right, to a groove and 2 pegs. Follow the groove to a left-trending break and move left, peg, and up into a small overhang capped corner/groove, peg. At the overhang go left, peg, and pull over the overhang to finish.
FA. Chris Perry, Dave Pearce 28.6.1968 (4pts),FFA. Richard Harrison, Gordon Jenkin 18.12.1977
When finishing pitch 2, after pulling over the roof, head right not left (into thorns etc)!
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10
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