Wall of Spirits
| E8 6b|
<< Black Magic < Darkinbad the Brightdayler | Siren's Cry > None >>
The spooky headwall that looms above Black Magic is the Atlantic Coast's hardest and boldest lead to date. Start as for Black Magic at its short slab.
1) 6a, 45m. Follow Black Magic until just beyond its distinct white quartz patch. Take the faint line of weakness that swoops out left into the centre of the shield. When directly below a small overlap, climb direct, making bold moves through the overlap to gain the ramp leading left to the Black Magic stance. A fine pitch.
2) 6b, 40m. Move out left along a shelf until directly below a crystal pocket in the centre of the wall. Tricky, bold climbing gains the pocket (crucial friend 2.5 - the only gear before the crux). Move up right on crimps to gain a poor rest. Now follow a line of holds back left, heading towards the arete, until a very bold crux sequence enables a standing position on the arete to be gained. Move up to better holds and gear, and follow the much easier groove system to the top.
FA. Dave Pickford, Mike Robertson 9.2004 Pitch 2 (headpointed),FA. Dave Pickford, Sarah Garnett 6.2006 Pitch 1