Autumn Flakes

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Big Top < Zig Zag  |  Paragon > In-Between >>

Energetic lower moves lead the way to a superbly airy top pitch that requires careful route finding. Start just right of the awkward step-down in the path at a left-slanting hand-crack.
1) 4a, 8m. Nip up the crack to a large grassy ledge with a big flake on it.
2) 4a, 20m. Strenuously climb the flake and pull onto another ledge. More flakes lead up and rightwards before a step right gains a small foot-ledge and various belays at the top of the reddish rake and just beneath a long black vein and weakness that runs up leftward. This is just above the larger ledge of the Nameless belay at the top of its first pitch.
3) 4b, 28m. Move up above the black diagonal vein to a good runner and step leftwards with feet just above the vein to an easing in a scoop. Finish via much easier climbing along the diagonal break.
FA. Rawdon Goodier, P.Henry 3.9.1955


Can't see how the top pitch requires any route-finding at all - just follow the black vein. Pitch 2 on the other hand is far from obvious as to where you're supposed to step right and belay.
Too much beta given for the start of pitch 3.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11

Also, "This is just above the larger ledge of the Nameless belay at the top of its first pitch." isn't very useful, as the Nameless belay is tiny! Yes it's larger than this one, but the description suggests that there's something bigger to look for.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11

Finally, we reckoned the pitch grades were 4a, 4b, 4a.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Sep/11

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