| HVS 5a|
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A popular, intricate and sustained climb that visits some of the trickier sections of the crag bypassed by the well-trodden VSs. Start below a series of narrow corners just left of a huge flake at the base of the wall.
1) 5a, 26m. Move up cracks to a ledge and make a committing move up right into another small corner. Climb this, and its continuation to a belay at the junction with the red band of rock that crosses the face.
2) 4c, 23m. Traverse right for around 8m to a steep groove. Climb the groove past a black stained hole and an overlap just above to a flake that leads left under an overhang to a slabby bay and a belay at its left-hand side.
3) 5a, 12m. Move back right to the bottom of a wide, rounded flake-crack. Climb the crack strenuously to where it eases and move right to a belay below a leaning corner.
4) 5a, 15m. Climb the leaning corner which is hard but well-protected, to a welcome jug on the left. The top is not far above.
FA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 24.5.1956