| E2 5c|
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A shy classic that features some precarious, technical groove climbing on immaculate rock. Start at the base of the reddish left-slanting rake.
1) 4c, 29m. Follow the reddish rake for a few metres before branching up right to enter the base of a large overhung niche. Climb up the back of the niche and make a trying traverse right to easier ground and block-belays. An awkward pitch.
2) 5c, 20m. Traverse left along the top of the overhung niche past a back streak and pull into a slim groove. Climb the technical groove past a peg to a ledge and than make more hard moves left and up another groove to a belay ledge.
3) 5c, 20m. From the left-hand end of the belay ledge climb leftwards with difficulty to easier-angled ground and finish up cracks and grooves.
FA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 3.6.1966
The peg on pitch 2 is missing (for the record I didn't remove it!). This makes the crux moves in the groove feel a good deal bolder, despite some mediocre wires. Still in the E2 grade bracket I think.
Shane Ohly - 24/Jul/11
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