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Wildly exposed moves in an outrageous location mark out the top pitch of this intimidating line. Start at an easy-angled line of weakness that runs up rightwards to beneath a black wall known as the Coal Face.
1) 5a, 30m. Follow the line of weakness rightwards for around 10m until a direct line can be taken past a groove, ledge and corner to a stance on the arete at a large block - the Pedestal stance. The left arete of 'The Coal Face' can also be climbed to the stance and belay, at the same grade.
2) 5b, 28m. Climb up a thin crack in the Coal Face to the first overhangs. Traverse left and move up a groove to a slab that leads to below the upper overhangs. Make committing and very exposed moves out rightwards past an old peg to a sudden easing and a stance above.
3) 10m. The easy wall above to the top.
FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 26.8.1956,FFA. Ed Drummond, Tom Proctor 20.4.1973