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Bosigran's most celebrated Extreme, and one of its most exciting. Start by scrambling up a corner and crack to a stance under the leaning light brown wall.
1) 5b, 26m. Follow a line of surprisingly good holds out rightwards across the impressive wall to a small spike. Continue up a crack, past a horizontal crack with what looks like a pancake of rock sandwiched in it, to a traverse-line slightly higher. Strenuous moves rightwards lead immediately into more technical ground that gains a cramped slab under an overhang. Move right and pull through the overhang to a belay just above.
2) 5b, 26m. Make an exposed traverse left along the lip of the overhang to meet a diagonal break that leads more easily back rightwards to the top of the crag.
FA. Joe Brown 7.1957
Great route. Good to get it ticked after retreating from it on an earlier attempt a few years ago
Charles Moreton - 03/May/11
Fantastic route and having done it many times now I am confident that 'the move' onto the little slab on the first pitch is way harder than anything else give 5b at Bosigran... It's well protected though and great route for E2 and E3 leaders to try.
Shane Ohly - 24/Jul/11
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