<< Kittiwake < Red Wall | Pegasus > Pendulum Chimney >>
The meat of this climb is crack-climbing and only the start of the route lives up to its name. Start 6m left of the base of Pegasus's corner.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb a faint crack-line rightwards to join a large corner at 10m. Ascend the steepening corner with difficulty to its top and move right to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb easy-angled rock to a crack in the steep wall above a right to left-slanting break. Climb the crack and its continuation to a wide break from where a short awkward section of wide crack above accesses a good ledge and belay.
3) 8m. Climb the easy corner on the left to the top.
FA. G.Smith, John Deacon 1955
Rather peters out after a stunning first pitch.
Worth remembering that this route (and Kittiwake) can be accessed at higher tide states by easily scrambling down the east side of Zawn Rinny to the LH end of the slab. The slab is climbable pretty much anywhere at a similar grade so this doesn't affect the route at all.
GrahamD - 22/Apr/14
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments