South Face Direct
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Beautiful climbing and positions mark out this route as one of West Penwith's most sought-after VSs. The route can be climbed at high tide during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch. Start on a good ledge at a crack on the left wall of East Gully, around 10m up from the bottom of the crag.
1) 4a, 14m. Climb the crack to a belay ledge on the left. The ledge is just below where the crack thins.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the thin crack-system with difficulty, which soon eases, and continue up the crack to a large mushroom shaped blob. Use the blob to move right into a short corner and follow it to a stance on a good ledge.
3) 4c, 12m. Take the steep crack above, passing the last bulging section with difficulty. Move left to a stance and belay on a long ledge.
4) 4a, 13m. Move right and up behind a large perched block and follow cracks up a wall to the top of the buttress.
FA. Jim Courtlandt-Simpson, Eric Stones 1948