<< South Face Direct < Rake's Progress | Caliban > Flannel Avenue >>
A perfectly-positioned middle pitch and less busy than some of the other lines in the area. The first stance at the start of the best climbing is easily reached at high tide by traversing across and down to it from the lower part of Ash Can Gully (Sev). Start at a thin crack right of the bottom of Ash Can Gully and just to the left of a small corner.
1) 4b, 12m. Climb the thin crack and work up rightwards to a ledge and belay next to an arete on the right.
2) 4c, 22m. Traverse right to double converging cracks and follow these to a good ledge. Take the crack on the left to the overhang and make a short, awkward traverse left beneath it before breaking through at a crack to gain a ledge. Climb the cracks and wall above to a belay.
3) 13m. From the right side of the ledge take the easiest line to the top.
FA. Trevor Peck, Pete Biven 25.5.1956