| VS 5a|
<< Caliban < Flannel Avenue | The Spire > Bishop's Rib >>
One of Cornwall's greatest VS routes. High in the grade and requiring a broad selection of techniques, the line follows the huge corner up the middle of Bishop's Buttress before making a memorable leftwards traverse to clear the huge roof. Start at a short crack just left of the corner-line.
1) 4c, 20m. Move up to a long ledge and then move right into the wide crack. Climb the slab and corner right of the wide crack (or the wide crack itself) to join up with the wide crack once again at 7m. Climb the widening crack awkwardly to a stance in the back of the crack beneath the roof.
2) 5a, 10m. Make a technical horizontal traverse left across the face and move up a little way to a stance where the overhang fades. (The crack that runs underneath the roof to the stance may also be climbed at around the same standard).
3) 4a, 15m. Climb cracks in the wall directly above the stance to a large ledge and block-belays.
4) 4b, 11m. The line of steep thin cracks above the centre of the ledge as for Flannel Avenue.
FA. M.Ridges, J.Lilly 1951
Its the first pitch that takes some working out! Especially if the sea's a bit 'frisky' and the second's getting wet. No pressure....
Derek Morton - 10/Sep/11
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