| E1 5b|
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Engrossing and varied climbing up the right-hand side of the buttress. The initial slab is often damp and needs a little afternoon sun on it to dry it out. Start in the deep shady corner on the right side of the buttress.
1) 5b, 13m. Move up and traverse up leftwards across the slabby wall with spaced protection to a small ledge below a left-facing corner that rises to the stepped overhang. Make some difficult moves up the corner and pull over the overhang then continue to a stance just beneath the next overhang.
2) 5a, 20m. Climb the wall on the left to another overlap and traverse a crack steeply left until it is possible to pull up through yet another small overlap onto the wall. Climb the wall via the most obvious crack to a good ledge.
3) 20m. Climb easily up and left to the summit of the buttress.
FA. John Deacon, J.Oakes 1956 (accessed from Diocese),FA.. Mike McDermott, R.Mellor, Denis Bateman 21.7.1963 (Line in its entirety)
Do many of you climb direct off the ground up the thin crack? There's good gear, and its somehow more logical. Beautiful 3 star route
Derek Morton - 10/Sep/11
I did the direct start for the first time this weekend having previously done the 'normal' start (I'd always been put off before as I'd assumed it was harder direct - it isn't). Done this way its very easy to run pitch 1 and two together and avoid the cramped belay on pitch 1.
GrahamD - 22/Apr/14
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