| E4 5c|
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A stiff first pitch contrasts with a death-defying unprotected second. Start below a thin, left-facing flake right of the main left to right weakness.
1) 5c, 17m. Make difficult fingery moves to gain and then leave the flake rightwards to eventually reach more substantial holds in a crack that comes in from the right. Continue with less difficulty up flakes and cracks to a narrow ledge and a high spike plus nut belays.
2) 5c, 16m. Unprotected. Follow the line of holds rightwards up the wall and then step up right onto scooped holds before making a heart-in-mouth friction move to better holds and easier ground above. Thread belays in blocks well back.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Steve Jones 5.4.1974