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An exciting and slightly bold headwall is the main attraction of this pitch. The top pitch can be gained easily by abseil if the tides are not favourable. Start on sea-level ledges below the main buttress.
1) 4c, 16m. Traverse left and climb a crack in a slab to a ledge and belay below the steep headwall.
2) 5c, 18m. Climb up the headwall to a horizontal break and move right. Boldly climb the wall above to better holds and protection before finishing up a short lichen-covered wall.
FA. Pete O'Sullivan, Steve Bell 5.4.1986