<< Goddess of Gloom < Moonraker | Seventh Dread > Savage Earthsea >>
A phenomenally-exposed route that voyages out across the lip of the Great Cave prior to climbing the massive headwall above. Start as for Moonraker at its hanging stance.
1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an old peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climb it to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, leftwards to a good ledge. The short wall on the right gains a cave and a huge thread belay.
3) 5b, 23m. Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top.
FA. Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 4.4.1969
There is no chcockstone in the crack on pitch one, but a natural thread.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10
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