Magical Mystery Tour

3 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Caveman < Yardarm  |  Rainbow Bridge > Abbot's Way >>

A mighty-fine sea-level traverse that crosses the terrain from the Great Cave to the headland to the south. The climbing is steep and sustained but fun, and for the most part on huge holds. Start at low tide in the Great Cave. Given a DWS grade of S1. Scramble into the back of the Great Cave and traverse back out steeply on its opposite wall, to gain a tidal ledge (the start of Moonraker). Continue on good holds and pass an overhanging buttress, either very low on barnacles, or high on more difficult ground. Continue along to a steep black wall. Climb up this, then traverse to the Green-Grotto entrance, where you may have to get damp feet to pass across its entrance to the opposite side. Follow the juggy wall all the way along to the much bigger Blue Grotto entrance. Swim 10m across the entrance and climb easily up onto the ridge of the headland. Finish by scrambling up to the coastal footpath which leads back to the car park and descent path to the Great Cave.
FA. Rusty Baillie, John Cleare 31.12.1967 (some aid),FFA. Frank Cannings, Pete Biven 3.1.1968


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