<< Pinnacle Traverse < Tobacco Road | Gates of Eden > Last Exit to Torquay >>
A wild expedition up the curving left arete of the main corner. Start below the steep wall, right of a large red corner.
1) 5a, 12m. From some sandy red rock at the base of the crag, move up the right wall on good, but suspect holds to a wide crack, large cam, that ends at a large ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 16m. Climb the groove above and move up left to a rest. Climb up the steep left side of the arete and then step right to the arete. Pull into a large sloping belay-niche. An exposed spot.
3) 5a, 12m. Traverse rightwards out of the niche and pull up and then left into a corner below another overhang. Finish direct. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Frank Cannings, Pat Littlejohn 9.7.1967