Gates of Eden

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Tobacco Road < Gargantua  |  Last Exit to Torquay > Suicide Blonde >>

An often-overlooked sea-cliff classic that takes on the Main Cliff at its most intimidating, incorporating some juggy climbing and airy situations on great rock. The first pitch is now much harder than when originally climbed due to a rockfall. However, it is well protected and solid. Start next to the huge block leaning against the cliff beneath the massive corner.
1) 5a, 20m. Bridge up the wide crack between the cliff and the huge block, and at 3m, step left onto the cliff and climb a thin crack to a ledge. Negotiate the steep wall and strenuous moves directly above into the bottom of the massive corner (good nut placement before you pull round) and climb easily up to a stance in the corner.
2) 4a, 16m. Move up the corner to a point where a line leads out leftwards. Follow this on good holds between two overhangs towards the arete, then a move can be made up to the well-defined niche. Awkward belay.
3) 4a, 10m. Move left out of the niche into an exposed bottomless corner and climb this to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Steve Dawson, John Hammond 29.5.1967


The first two pitches can be done in one.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10

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