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The severely overhanging, narrow corner that dominates the main section of the Sanctuary Wall presents a daunting line. Very strenuous. Start directly beneath the corner.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the corner strenuously, past pegs on the right, to a stance and belay on an exposed ledge.
2) 5c, 10m. Move up to the overhang and pass it on the right. Nuts and an iron spike just below the ridge. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Steve Monks, Ed Hart 5.80 (pitch 2 Steve Lewis, John Codding 1983)
The iron spike is at an unsuitable angle for a belay. Nuts and peg up the ridge to the right are better. Pegs on pitch one are irrelevant, being off route and there being ample bomber protection in the groove.
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10
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