<< Caribbean Blue < Call to Arms | False Gods > Up the Styx, Without a Paddle >>
A lesson in adventure on a route with a fearful name and reputation gives a sensational trip onto the Sanctuary Wall at a reasonable grade. Start at the notch on the landward side of the Sanctuary Wall.
1) 5b, 9m. From the notch, step down over the void, and make a tricky move left onto an easier ramp. Follow this a short way, peg, to a flat ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Take the corner above and pass the overhang on the left by via a steep layback. Easier climbing gains the top. Nuts and an iron spike just below the ridge. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Peter Biven 30.3.1968