3 Stars
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Up the Styx, Without a Paddle < Shadow Beast  |  Black Ice > None >>

A very sustained route that has a good deal of excellent climbing, although the protection, from numerous ageing pegs, should be treated with caution. Start left of a tree at the base of the wall.
1) 6a, 27m. Climb sloping holds boldly to a vegetated diagonal-break and a peg above it. Move left below the peg, then climb a pocket-line to a thin crack, peg. Move up the crack to an open groove and ascend it boldly to a bolt and peg-belay on a slab.
2) 6a, 27m. Follow thin cracks rightwards to a small ledge from where bold moves access a ledge on the left and a medium size cam placement. Make hard moves to a poor peg and traverse rightwards below it to holds that gain a peg. Continue to another peg from where hard moves past a further peg end at a blank slab. Climb a thin flake up on the left to easier ground and a traverse rightwards to a bolted belay. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Nick White, Pete Bull 11.7.1986


On pitch 1 there is no bold climbing to the belay. Adequate gear and one easy move to the belay. On pitch 2 there is one less pag than that described. The description should read 'Make hard moves to clip a downward pointing peg. Drop back down then make hard moves right and up to end up just right of the peg.'
Graham Hoey - 21/Aug/10

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