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The centre of the huge sweep of 'boilerplate' slabs provides some exquisite slab-climbing. Start directly beneath the smoothest part of the face, just to the right of a small tree.
1) 5c, 30m. Move up past some pink stains to a good peg in a thin diagonal break. Go right to another peg, before climbing leftwards to a shallow niche, then a large vegetated break just above. Move right 2 metres, and climb the wall above a short way, before traversing left, past a peg, to gain a thin, intermittent crack-line. Follow this to a difficult sequence just below the belay-ledge.
2) 5c, 23m. Climb up rightwards from the belay to a ledge, slightly loose. Move up to an undercut flake. Take this leftwards, then follow the steep, fingery wall to another flake-crack on the left. Climb more easily to a bolt-belay. Either move right to the descent path or make a 45m abseil to the ground. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, Keith Darbyshire 2.1973
This is a tremendous route - well worth the three stars. The moves into the shallow niche on pitch one are definitely bold although no more than 5b. The description for pitch two is slightly misleading; the undercut flake is followed by a few balancy traversing moves to reach the final crack - it could be infered from the description that the route goes up the wall at the end of the undercut flake. However, it's completely obvious when you're up there.
matt perks - 02/Aug/10
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